Lamb dhansak - no Indian miracle

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lamb-dhansak.jpgThwarted by the early summer we are having in London, I stayed out too long and missed the only thing worth watching this week on TV.

It was an investigation into India’s rise as a superpower and economic miracle on the one hand, while being mired in poverty on the other.

It was aired on the same day The Sunday Times reported Calcutta-born Lakshmi Mittal as the fastest growing fortune in Britain with an average annual growth rate of £621million. And the day other media reported that ethnic minorities are twice as likely to live in poverty than white Britons, with some 30% of Indians in Britain living below the poverty line.

Ironic, that.

Britain’s interest in India doesn’t end in questionable economic miracles and Z-list Bollywood stars, we have the many curry houses to think about too. It’s been a while since I had a rant about the sludge passed off as Indian food in this country.

Lamb dhansak is a case in point. It’s a rich, healthy and delicious curry contributed to our cuisine by Parsis, which British curry houses have bastardised beyond belief with the addition of pineapple, spinach and other dubious ingredients.

Normally, a dhansak would be beyond the realm of my quick Indian comfort zone because of the long list of ingredients involved. But the recent purchase of a pressure cooker and a well-stocked cupboard made me tread where I dare not before.

Besides, it clearly has some kudos as a hearty weekday meal with vegetarian potential, so why not?

There are lot of recipes for dhansak, but there are few main things to remember:

  • It is meant to be hot, sweet and sour. Use as much chilli (fresh green and dry red) as possible
  • All recipes use pumpkin. This is not in season right now so I substituted it with sweet potato. Butternut squash would also work well
  • Make sure you use large chucks of lamb so they don’t melt into the lentils
  • Use whatever combination of red and yellow lentils you like. It won’t make a difference to the end result

My suggestion would be to cook this as a one-pot stew and eat it with steamed rice. Oh and don’t get put off by the long list of ingredients - think how much fun it’ll be telling your local balti where to dump their dhansak.

This recipe serves 4 hungry people:

500 gm boneless lamb, diced into large chunks
2 small tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 medium onions, roughly chopped

1 tsp tamarind paste
2 tbsp oil
Salt to taste

Lentil mixture

One-third cup toor dal
One-third cup masoor dal
One-third cup urad dal
1 small aubergine, chopped
1 small sweet potato, chopped
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
10 mint leaves
Handful of coriander
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp oil

Paste

6 cloves garlic
1″ ginger
2 red chillies
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp coriander
1″ cinnamon
4 green cardamoms
4 whole black peppercorns
1 tbsp kasoori methi or 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
5 sprigs of coriander
Half a star anise
Half tsp freshly grated nutmeg

Put all the ingredients for the lentil mixture in the pressure cooker, bring to the first whistle and then simmer for 20 minutes until the whole mixture is overcooked. Uncover and mash wth a wooden spoon to get a semi-smooth mixture.

While the lentils are cooking, grind all the paste ingredients in a blender. Heat the oil and when hot, fry the two chopped onions until pale brown. Add the spice paste and the tomatoes and fry for five minutes, stirring regularly.

Then add the lamb and fry until they are brown all over and well coated in the masalas. When the lentils are done, put the lamb mixture into it and pressure cook again for about 15 minutes.

Open the pressure cooker, mix in the tamarind paste, add salt and enjoy.

If you don’t have a pressure cooker, just cook it on the hob. It will take more time, but you could be running chores while the dal and lamb cook.

14 Comments

  1. Posted May 1, 2007 at 6:31 am | Permalink

    You made Dhansak..no kidding !!!! The loooong list of ingreds have left me wondering but I really want to make this , maybe some day

  2. Posted May 1, 2007 at 9:50 am | Permalink

    the last time i had a real lamb dhansak was at the Parsi Club in Bombay circa 1999. this definitely brings back memories and i think i might be brave enough to try it out at home! will let you know how it turned out…

  3. Posted May 3, 2007 at 3:07 am | Permalink

    Great post, Mallika. I’ve had the privilege of seeing dhansak made properly when doing my work experience with Cyrus Todiwala at Café Spice in Aldgate. Not surprising that he makes it so well (and has strong views about some bastardised dhansak recipes) because he’s a Parsee.

  4. Maria Otávia Freitas
    Posted June 29, 2007 at 7:11 pm | Permalink

    Dear Mallika,
    the photograph of your recipe was so wonderful that I could not resist, but had to do it. However mine did not turn as saucy as yours. It became rather a paste. Besides, it was not sweet and the cumin taste was too strong. I would therefore appreciate if you could explain me a few things.
    1) How much water do you put on the pressure cooker with the lentil mixture?
    2) How much water do you put on the paste to mix it?
    3) how much ginger is added? You wrote 1 glove, but there is no such thing as a glove of ginger. Besides some ginger roots are bigger and other smaller.
    4) How big is the pumpkin. How much should it weight?
    5) Are these table spoons full like a mountain, or at the level of the spoon?
    5) Is this tablespoon of cumin and coriander in powder or fresh ones?
    6) what does this kasoori methi taste like? I am asking you because where I live there are no Indians and therefore I do not find this ingredient.
    7) although you said the salt is to taste, how much approximately do you use? One teaspoon salt, more, or less?
    Many thanks
    Maria Otávia

  5. Posted June 30, 2007 at 8:32 am | Permalink

    Hi Maria

    I am so sorry that your dhansak didn’t come out as saucy as mine (no pun intended!!). I can see that the recipe has some holes in it that I can surely rectify now.

    Here are my responses to your questions, in order:

    1. You need enough water in the pressure cooker to cook the lentils - about one-third the way up the pressure cooker

    2. You don’t need any water in the paste to mix it. If your paste is proving particularly difficult, add a tablespoon to loosen it slightly

    3. I have used 1″ or one inch of ginger. This refers to the length of the main root. The width tends to be more less the same width

    4. 1 small sweet potato is about 225 grams, so if using pumpkin, please replace with the same weight

    5. For the paste you need coriander and cumin powder, when I say handful it’s always fresh coriander

    6. Kasoori methi is bitter, dry fenugreek leaves. You can buy this online very easily and it’s usually added to dishes to cut the sour or sweet taste of dishes

    7. I really do mean salt to taste. I usually add about half a teaspoon and then test to see if it’s right, adding some more normally to make it just right. This one is totally up to you

    I hope this hasn’t made you go off Indian cooking for life. Next time you want to try one of my recipe, please feel free to send me questions beforehand so we can guarantee picture perfect results!! :-)

    Very best
    Mallika

  6. Posted September 18, 2007 at 12:37 am | Permalink

    Dear Mallika,

    Great post! You are spot on with the entire recipe and have got the proportions absolutely right. Being a working chef, who has had the childhood advantage of great Parsi tenants & wonderful Parsi Friends in Secunderabad where I grew up, I am sure that this recipe is foolproof and comes very close to what I do here at work. This can be tried with chicken as well as long as one takes care to saute the chicken separately and then add it to the finished dhansak.

    Regards,

    Srinath

  7. Maria Otávia Freitas
    Posted October 27, 2007 at 8:54 pm | Permalink

    Dear Mallika,
    It was just today that I entered you page and saw your answer to my questions. Many thanks to your kind and detailed answer. Please, do not worry about me possibly going off Indian cooking because of my faulty cooking. I do appreciate Indian dishes (though I have a problem with hot ones) and I would surely insist on trying even the lamb dhansak in an Indian restaurant shall my next try does not come out as saucy as yours. I do not think I will be cooking it in the very near future, but when I do, I shall let you know about the result!
    Thousand thanks,
    With best wishes,
    Maria Otávia

  8. Murray Porter
    Posted January 24, 2008 at 6:00 am | Permalink

    Hi Mallika,

    nice to see a traditional un-bastardised version of this classic tasty dish. I take it I could produce a similiar effort without a pressure cooker? I have an old Mrs Balbir Singh cookbook from the 70’s and she advocates the use of pressure cookers, should I get one?

  9. Posted February 9, 2008 at 12:00 am | Permalink

    Hi Murray

    Thanks for writing in. I’m on hols at the moment hence the late reply - sorry!

    Everything on my blog is un-bastardised because I got so sick and tired of seeing the crap being churned out at Indian food. I would 100% recommend a pressure cooker. It’s economical, energy and time saving. This is one relic from the 70s that needs to come back in fashion.

    They are also piss easy to use (excuse the language).

    More from me later… whoever is Mrs Balbir??

  10. Emily Martin
    Posted March 3, 2008 at 3:46 am | Permalink

    I was very excited to find this recipe! I’m making it tonight for dinner but as I don’t have a pressure cooker, I thought I would make the lentil sauce mix last night and did have a little stab in the dark when guessing the right amount of water to use and it did stick a little but I topped it up and now have what looks like a lentil soup consistency. I also made the paste last night ind it smelled terriffic! Yes, the ingredients list is a little long but for we who tend to cook a lot of Indian, it shouldn’t prove too expensive as the spices, herbs and major flavour ingredients are already in our larders. I only had to buy the lamb, aubergine and pumpkin (butternut squash, actually) Wish me luck and I’ll let you know how it turns out!

  11. Emily Martin
    Posted March 4, 2008 at 2:47 am | Permalink

    OK! I made this recipe last night and Have to say that overall it was a success but with a few alterations.
    When I made the paste, I was concerned that there wasn’t enough of the spices, mostly the cumin, coriander and fenugreek. When I added the paste to the onions to fry them, I wasn’t satisfied that there was enough of that wonderful spicy aroma so I added more cumin, coriander, fenugreek and some turmeric. (up to about 1 tbsp each)
    I tasted it along the way and felt that there was still a little something missing. 20 minutes before serving I added another 4 chopped cloves of garlic, another chilli and the twice the amount of required tamarind paste.
    Right before serving I squeezed in the juice of half a lemon.
    There was a lot of sauce and I ended up using 700g of lamb shoulder so that might be why the flavours seemed a little insipid to me at the beginning.
    I hope the addition of lemon juice didn’t completely ‘bastardize’ the recipe but it really seemed to give it that little something and this curry was one of the best I have ever made. I would be interested in doing a prawn version, as my step-mother loves prawn dhansak but I don’t know whether that would be authentic or when I would add the prawns to avoid over-cooking.

    Thanks for this great recipe!
    Emily

  12. Posted March 12, 2008 at 2:09 pm | Permalink

    Hi Emily

    Thanks so much for writing in. I think your dish tasted a bit bland at first possibly because you used more lamb. But then, it could also be the quality of the spices. They vary sooo much. It’s hard t keep up sometimes!!

    My dish did have a lot of sauce and I liked it like that. I am sure the lemon juice was a lovely touch.

    Hope you are going to try some other recipes too.

    M
    x

  13. Posted April 3, 2008 at 3:30 am | Permalink

    Thank you thank you thank you. I pigged out on this last night. Though I played fast and loose with some of the ingredients it still turned out absolutely yum. Can’t wait to get home and get to the leftovers : )

  14. Texy
    Posted July 17, 2008 at 7:04 am | Permalink

    I,m gonna give this a go tonight, but I,d like to see a printable version of the recipe available please.
    Cheers,
    Texy

2 Trackbacks

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