Mini Basu was strapped squawking into the back of a Mercedes. I shoved the contents of our entire apartment into the rest of the car. Got some white Versace sunglasses and shiny wedge-heeled wellies on. And off we went.  Driving towards three days of fresh air.

It was going so well there. Until I asked an old friend, if the lady of a certain age accompanying him was his mother. No, he replied, she’s my girlfriend.

I am happy to report that Shimla is officially the most popular curry house and takeaway name in the small towns in Ayrshire. In fact, so popular is this stuff, that the chef’s Sunday night special at Irvine’s oldest pub (and nicest) was a Lamb Rogan Josh with Spiced Rice.

Made me crave the subtly-spiced Adraki Gosht, or gingered lamb, I’d once cooked for our financial adviser. I sang its praises before lunch until he declared he hates ginger. With Spring well in the air, and quality lamb about, I’ll happily eat this along with my words any day.

Feeds 4:

• 850gm lamb shoulder (goat meat works really well too)
• 1 large onion
• 3 inches fresh ginger
• 4 tbsp low fat natural yogurt
• 1 tsp coriander powder
• Half tsp turmeric powder
• Half tsp chilli powder
• 1 large bay leaf
• 2 inch stick cinnamon
• 2 tbsp oil
• Salt to taste

Dice the lamb shoulder into large chunks. I use boneless rolled shoulder, which is readily available without a special trip to the butcher.

Chop the onion roughly and mince the ginger in a food processor or just chop finely. Marinate the meat in the yogurt, ginger, turmeric and chilli powders and leave to sit while you fire up the oil in a large pot.

When the oil is hot, add the bay leaf, cinnamon and chopped onion. Saute for five minutes until the onion is pale golden. Then mix in the coriander powder, lamb and its marinade.

Brown the lamb on high, then add half a cup of hot water, lower the heat to a medium high and cook covered for half an hour. You need to keep stirring the lamb to make sure it doesn’t burn. If the masalas start getting stuck to the bottom of the pot, add another half a cup of water and scrape them off.

After half an hour, take the cover off and cook for another half an hour uncovered stirring regularly. Add another half a cup of hot water if the lamb starts sticking to the bottom of the pot. The reason I’m being vague about the cups of water is because it slightly depends upon the quality of the lamb you’re working with.

Finish by adding salt to taste and a sprinkle of fresh, julienned ginger to the serving dish before you plonk it on the dining table. This is great with warm rotis and a raita.

It was all going so well. Until we returned via Dubai. I arrived at the departure gate. Baby intact. Outfit in place. Handbag missing.

Disaster. All those valuables. That lucky lipgloss! The irreplaceable Chanel sunglasses! A brand new, albeit empty, Coccinelle wallet!

Luckily, the man had the passports and boarding cards. We jumped on the flight back to London. Mini Basu played merrily with the crew. While I mourned the loss of my precious belongings.

I wasted no time on my return. I ranted and raved at Dubai airport police. Someone stole my handbag. The sunglasses were like no other. The bag was almost new. And when I stopped for breath, they announced it had been found in the last coffee shop I had visited. All contents intact.

This called for celebration. I remembered seeing a decadent recipe for Nalli Gosht, or lamb shank curry, in an old copy of Indian GQ. Contributed by a hotel chef it had the prerequisite cream, butter et al. In my version, you can shove the whole lot into the oven and finish off the curry by running it through a sieve. I ditched the cream, but a small amount of butter really crowned this beauty.

At just over an hour, it’s on my uppermost limit of quick Indian cooking. But I defended my choice by having ample time to make Jeera Pulao, Kulfi and raita for my small dinner party while the lamb did its thing in the oven. You could, of course, cook this on the hob but the shanks will take at least an hour and a half to soften, while you turn them at regular intervals.

Feeds 2:

• 2 medium lamb shanks
• 1 pint of tomato sauce or passata
• 2 medium onions
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2 inches ginger
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• 1 tsp paprika
• Half tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tbsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 1 black cardamom
• 1 inch cinnamon
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tbsp natural Greek (thick) yogurt
• 1 tbsp oil
• 50gm butter
• Salt to taste

Slice the onions and chop the ginger and garlic up finely. Turn the oven on to 190 degree centigrade (170 for fan assisted). Place a casserole dish large enough to hold the two lamb shanks on the hob and bring the oil to heat. When piping hot, throw in the bay leaves, cinnamon and cardamom. As they sizzle up, mix in the onion, ginger and garlic and fry for 10 minutes until translucent.

Then add all the masala powders, along with the lamb shanks. Vigorously stir them, mixing well with the masalas, until the shanks brown and the pungent aroma of the spices subsides.

Now, pour in the tomato sauce and transfer the casserole dish to the middle shelf of the oven. If you have bought a pack of lamb shanks, it should tell you how long they will need to cook. If not, roast for an hour flipping the shanks over once half way through cooking time.

When the lamb falls off the bone easily when prodded with a fork, remove the casserole dish from the oven and turn it off. Carefully remove the lamb shanks on to a oven safe plate and stick them back in the oven to keep them warm. Then pass the curry in the casserole dish through a sieve, pressing hard with a wooden spoon to get as much of the ingredients, into a small pan.

Cook the curry on a low setting, mixing the yogurt and butter in for about ten minutes until you see oil floating to the top through little pores. Add salt to taste, stir in the garam masala and served spooned over the tender lamb shanks with some Jeera Pulao on the side.

Check out Deeba at Passionate About Baking’s mouth watering version too.

The trip had been avoided for ages. Both my local supermarkets now sport “Asian” sections. The joy of being able to buy bags of green finger chillies with a case of French wine has been life changing. I save the special trip for when I really need to restock most of my supplies. Also buy meat on the bone for rich, flavoursome curries.

I jumped out of the car narrowly avoiding being run over. Mentally derided myself for wearing a floor length pure Angora coat to this monument to dust, exposed vegetables and spices. Apologised a thousand times for bumping into a hundred auntyjis.

And ended up buying overpriced “best quality” lamb. Thanks, I croaked, as I contemplated how best to transfer the meagre, meat-coated change from my £10 (for 1 kg) into my beautiful leather purse. While my man looked on in disgust.

This lamb needed a recipe worth the pain and the pleasure. I came across one while researching birthday cakes on a certified inspirational passionate baker. It’s Deeba’s Gosht Do Piaza, a North Indian lamb stew cooked with double onions. The sweetness of the onions and tomatoes was out of this world with the hearty meat and whole spices.

But never mind what I think. This is Deeba’s mom’s favourite recipe. Moms know best. My man summed it up eloquently with “this kicks arse”. He has also forgiven me for dragging him to the spice shop and offered to make it a weekly treat.

For this recipe, I might even agree.

PS= Deeba advocates the addition of green chillies, but her original recipe was spicy enough to clear our collective sinuses and heads. Proceed with caution

PPS = The garam masala powder was my addition to balance the flavours and can be omitted altogether

Feeds 4:

• 500gm quality lamb shoulder, diced with bone
• 2 large tomatoes
• 4 large onions
• 250gm thick natural yogurt (Greek works best)
• Half teaspoon chilli powder
• 1 tsp paprika
• Half tsp garam masala
• 5 whole dry red chillies
• 5 black cardamoms
• 5 cloves
• 5 whole black peppers
• 1 clove garlic
• 2 inch ginger
• 4 tbsp sunflower oil

Slice two onions finely and fry in the oil on a high heat in a large pan. In the meantime, peel and mince / puree the ginger and garlic. As the onions turn golden, add in the lamb and fry for another five minutes sealing them well.

Now add the yogurt and keep sauteing for another five minutes. Stir from time to time and chop the remaining onions and the tomatoes into one-inch pieces . Next, mix in the whole masalas, paprika and chilli powder and mix through. Then stir in the ginger, garlic and onion pieces.

I next added half a cup of hot water and left the lamb to cook covered on a medium high flame for half an hour stirring viciously every few minutes. Finally, I took the cover off and let it dry up and keep softening for another half an hour. If you have a pressure cooker, this will take no more than one whistle plus 25 minutes on a low flame.

Stir in the garam masala when the lamb just melts in your mouth. Spoon into bowls and attack with ready made naan.

I cleverly used the 15-minute relaxation session at yoga to have a power snooze. Then changed into a pale gold top and dashed to the first Christmas party of the season. Sailing proudly past the other 10 awestruck dumbfounded pregnant women.

Then came the office Christmas party. Where I tried to blend into a room full of gorgeous, small-waisted colleagues. Three layers of makeup and an off-the-shoulder maternity party frock later my boss declared I had “just” maintained the glamour stakes.

But the biggest highlight of it all was meeting at least four different couples who wanted to cook a curry at Christmas. Not in place of the big bronze bird with all the trimmings.  But for pre-and post-dinners with friends and family.

I could barely conceal my excitement as I tried to rack my brains for simple curry recipes that wouldn’t send them into a blind ingredient-sourcing panic in the run up to the big event. I needed a chicken, lamb and vegetarian option. Crowd pleasing, one-pot meals that can be cooked easily and in large quantities to feed hungry families.

My next few posts are dedicated to this theme. The first recipe is for Dal Gosht, spiced lamb cooked with lentils. An Indian Cassoulet of sorts. I last made this in a large stock pot, divided it in half and froze it. Later serving it to two small groups of dinner party guests.

Both were well impressed. It’s tasty without being mouth-numbingly hot and a real winter warmer. From one big bronze bird to another – this is my spice-filled contribution to your Christmas meal.

Feeds 4-5

• 750gm lamb shoulder, diced with bones
• 150gm channa (Bengal Gram) lentils
• 2 large onions
• 2 medium tomatoes
• 1.5 inch ginger
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 green cardamoms
• 2 inch cinnamon
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 1.5 tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• Fresh coriander to garnish
• 3 tbsp sunflower/vegetable oil

Wash the dal in a sieve under the tap until the cold water runs clear. In a large pot, set it to boil with half a teaspoon of turmeric powder.

In the meantime, slice the tomatoes and the onion and puree or chop the ginger and garlic finely. Bring the oil to heat over a high flame in a medium pot. When it’s hot, throw in the whole spices and as they sizzle up, mix in the onions, ginger and garlic.

Fry the ingredients until they take on a pale golden colour. Now mix in the tomatoes with the spice powders and stir viciously for five minutes until the masalas are cooked. If they start sticking to the bottom of the pot just add a little hot water and scrape them off.

Then add in the lamb and brown it in the masalas. Make sure you keep an eye on the lentils. If they are dry, add a cup of hot water. When the lamb is brown, add a cup of hot water to it, cover and cook a medium flame for half an hour.

Finally, uncover the lamb and mix it into the lentils. Cook the two together until the lamb is tender and the channa dal just melts in the mouth. This dish is lovely sprinkled with fresh coriander and served with Jeera Pulao. But if you fancy making an extra effort, I would recommend some home made naan to go with it.

I chose to dust off one of my Indian cookbooks.

Now, Indian cookbooks are objects of great desire in my home. I purchase many. Mainly to see the spines lined up on the bookshelf. Occasionally I leaf through each recipe. Ogle over the full page of ingredients required. And then stick it back on the shelf.

This time, I decided to put one to better use. Out came this one. It was the photos of the whacky chef with elephants in South India that first attracted me.

But ultimately it was his sister’s recipe for Gosht Kali Mirch or Lamb with Black Pepper that clinched it.

The recipe was simple, used (comparatively) few ingredients and so delicious that I had to restrain myself from eating it all immediately. Not for the faint hearted or chilli challenged mind you.

We’ll see if the girls leave it on the shelf.

Feeds 4-6

• 800gm lamb shoulder, diced with bone
• 2 small tomatoes
• 3 medium onions
• 2 tbsp Greek yogurt
• 2 black cardamoms
• 8 green cardamoms
• 2 x 2″ cinnamon sticks
• 6 cloves
• 2 tsp whole black pepper
• 2 green chillies
• 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 4 garlic cloves
• Half tsp garam masala
• 3″ fresh ginger
• 3 tbsp oil

Chop the onion into little pieces and grate or puree the garlic and ginger together. Quarter the tomatoes.

In a large pot, bring the oil to heat over a high flame. When it’s hot, add all the whole spices. As they splutter, mix in the onion, garlic and ginger.

Fry this mixture for about five minutes until it turns a rich golden colour. Then add in the tomatoes, chillies, black pepper and garam masala. Stir for two minutes and as the tomatoes disintegrate, mix the yogurt and the lamb.

Mix the lamb into the masala vigorously. Add a pint of water, cover and cook on a medium flame until the lamb is tender. When it is, raise the heat and reduce the volume of liquid until the oil separates from the curry.

Serve with a squirt of lemon juice and chopped coriander.

In my experience, Indians don’t talk about death much. I’m quite happy to follow this fine example.

But now, I was sitting across a rather morbid will-writing consultant (or something). In between bites of my stone-baked, Capricciosa pizza I was being force fed likely future events.

“Do you have any possessions of real value you want to present to anyone?”

Gulp. My pots and pans?

“Real value.”

My shoes?

We finally settled on the only piece of pricey jewellery I possess. With that, I ran off to work leaving the husband to answer the last call.

To think I’d even momentarily considered parting with my pots and pans! I put them to use straightaway with Bhuna Gosht, and served it with my new found recipe for perfect naan – an Earthly reminder why life is worth living.

Feeds 4:

• 750 gm lamb shoulder, diced and bones included
• 2 medium onions, sliced fine
• 2 tsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• Half tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 4 fat cloves garlic, minced or pureed
• 1 inch ginger, minced or pureed
• 4 tbsp vegetable oil
• Salt to taste

In a large pot, heat the oil over a high flame. When it starts sizzling, throw in the onions and fry for five minutes until they turn soft and pale golden in colour.

Now add in the ginger and garlic and fry for about two minutes until they turn a golden colour too.

Then mix in the lamb and all the spices, apart from the garam masala. Mix the ingredients well together until the meat is sealed and brown all over.

Now add in just enough water to come half way up the sides of the meat, cover and cook on a medium flame. You need to keep stirring from time to time and add hot water only when the curry in the pot dries up.

This is what bhuna means – to stir until the masalas caramelise and the meat cooks. This whole process will take 45 minutes to an hour depending on the quality of the lamb.

When the curry is thick and dry, and the lambs falls apart easily when cut with a fork, mix in the coriander, salt and serve.

It takes no less that the first half hour to fire up the computer. Which then promptly crashes leaving me helpless and hormonal. I proceed to get barked at by colleague/ supplier/ journalist. And finally face an impossible client deadline that likens the plot of Mission Impossible to an urgent trip to the cornershop.

The 5-10 ingredients that add up to an Indian recipe are a far cry from all this. So they smell. Are well fiddly. And require some planning. But boy do they make up for working day misery as well as a stiff drink and trash TV.

(To think ready-mixed curry powder was once my holy grail of quick Indian cooking.)

My favourite ingredient for Indian cooking has to be yogurt. I know this sounds ridiculous, when there are a million wonderful and exotic spices we use. Hear me out. Yogurt:

1. Is a low-fat substitute for cream
2. Thickens curries without the need for dubious additions
3. Softens and tenderises meats
4. Has heaps of health benefits

Not so idiotic now, is it?

When cooking yogurt, I strongly advocate using the thick, full fat variety. We call it Greek Yogurt here, but it’s made from cow’s milk. Even on a high flame, this stuff does not split and gives a delicious richness to dishes. Any oil that escapes it, you can simply leave behind in the pan when you eat.

The low fat, natural variety works best for things like Raita or Lassi. I’ve tried mixing flour/cornflour into it and straining to thicken further – but it still curdles the minute it touches the high heat that’s a must for quick cooking.

Here is Zafrani gosht, a simple, tender saffron goat meat curry to get you thinking differently about this wonderful ingredient. You could also substitute the goat meat with chunks of lamb, bones included.

Feeds 4:

• 800 gm diced goat leg, bones included
• 200 gm Greek yogurt
• 2 tsp coriander powder
• 2 whole red chillies
• 1 whole brown cardamom
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 large onions
• 4 fat cloves garlic
• 2 inches ginger
• 10 strands saffron
• 2 tbsp sunflower oil
• Salt to taste

Finely chop or puree the ginger and garlic. Slice the onions.

In a large pan, heat the oil until very hot. Add the whole spices and as they sizzle, mix in the sliced onions.

Fry the onions over the high flame for five minutes until they turn a pale golden brown. Then stir in the ginger and garlic and fry for another five minutes until the masala transforms to a darker shade of gold.

Now add the coriander powder, yogurt and meat and stir like a maniac, until it is well sealed all over. Add a cup of hot water – enough to submerge the meat – and cook covered on a high flame for about 45 minutes.

You will need to keep stirring to prevent the meat from burning or sticking to the bottom of the pan. If this happens, you just need to add more hot water.

If you’re the proud owner of a pressure cooker, by all means use it. But the taste of this delicate curry, comes from the cooking time.

When the goat meat is tender and starts falling away from the bone, mix in the saffron strands and salt, simmer for a minute and serve piping hot with some Naan, and as in my case, premium beer.

Ps = This is my entry to the fantastic competition being organised by Maninas. I have my toes and fingers crossed.

It was time for QIC to have a little makeover. We have a more slick look. Videos with cooking basics. And photos of me looking like my younger, more glamorous sister.

On the downside, my blog consultant and dear friend Hugh may never speak to me again.

Fresh from the glow of a new beginning, I decided to try something different. I took to the streets of South London, to trial a new neighborhood for supplies.

First stop. Mrs Naila Salim. Owner of Pooja Sweets and Savouries on the bustling Upper Tooting Road. She had not just one but THREE types of samosas. (Thank you, God)

Next, I bought freshly-diced lamb shoulder from a Halal Butcher on Balham Road. He had goat meat too. The stuff we mainly eat in meat curries at home.

This is the cooking Indian equivalent of hitting the jackpot!

Things are hotting up on all fronts. What better than this Achari Gosht, fiery sour lamb curry cooked with pickle masalas, to send a sizzle through my kitchen too?

Feeds 4:

• 500 gm diced lamb shoulder, bones included
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 large tomatoes, chopped
• 3 tbsp plain Greek yoghurt
• 4 fat garlic cloves and 1 inch ginger, minced
• 2 tbsp panch phoron
• 4 whole red chillies
• Half tsp red chilli powder
• Half tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 2 tbsp fresh lime juice
• 3 tbsp mustard oil
• 1 tbsp sunflower oil
• Half tsp white sugar
• Salt to taste

In a medium-sized saucepan, bring the mustard oil to heat over a high flame.

When it is hot throw in the panch phoron, sugar and whole red chillies and, as they splutter, stir in the chopped onions. Fry for five minutes until the onions are soft and translucent.

Then mix in the garlic/ginger and stir the whole lot until it starts turning golden caramel in colour. Now add the turmeric and chilli powders and tomatoes. Stir like a maniac until the tomatoes disintegrate.

You may find that the mixture starts sticking to the bottom of the pan. If this happens, just add two tablespoons of water and scrape the masalas off the bottom of the pan.

At this stage, mix in the yoghurt, the lamb chunks and the sunflower oil. Seal the lamb all over, mixing well to coat evenly with the masalas.

Add enough hot water to submerge the lamb, lower the flame to medium high, cover and cook until the lamb literally melts in your mouth. You will need to watch this like a hawk or the dish will simply burn at the bottom.

As the dish cooks, its curry will be reduced to a thick, jelly-like consistency. When the lamb is cooked, mix in the garam masala, the lime juice and salt.

Served with hot, buttered Naans and creamy, plain yoghurt for a spicy treat.

Divine retribution. Poetic justice. Having made fun of my man I was now at the mercy of his creative cooking, i.e. pesto pasta and spaghetti bolognese.

By last night, I was feeling better. And a little desperate. My throat was dry, my eyes like slits and my hands quivering. I… needed… a… masala… fix… BADLY.

I settled on a pressure cooked Parsi lamb curry with apricots. Jordaloo Boti. Mother left me the recipe for this rich, sweet and sour curry in Summer and I kept it safe until the weather turned cooler.

But hubby was not quite ready to relinquish control of the kitchen, yet. He watched my every move, insisting the lamb wasn’t ready until it had dissolved into the curry, shaking the pressure cooker while its lid was on, throwing in extra apricots and whacking the flame up pointlessly when I wasn’t looking.

Did anyone say relapse?

Thankfully, the pressure cooker meant the lamb curry took 45 minutes to make. Hubby wolfed down his whole plate in seconds insisting it was “perfect for his palate” and “the lamb could have fallen off the bone more”.

I better recover soon. There ain’t no room for another cook in my kitchen…

This recipe feeds 3-4:

4 lamb shanks, 750 gm

2 medium tomatoes, chopped roughly

2 onions, chopped roughly

20 dried apricots

4 fat garlic cloves

1.5 inches ginger

8 whole black peppers

2 inches cinnamon

8 green cardamoms

Half tsp cumin powder

1 tsp coriander powder

1 tsp sugar

Half tsp chilli powder

3 drops of worcestershire sauce

1 large potato, peeled and cut into thin strips

4 tbsp sunflower oil

Salt to taste

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees celsius or gas mark 6. Place the three whole spices on a baking tray and dry roast untilt the green cardamoms turn pale brown.

In a small food processor or blender, grind the whole spices together with the ginger, garlic and a tablespoon of water.

Leave the oven on. Bring a large pan/pressure cooker (at least 5l) with three tablespoons of oil to heat over a high flame.

When the oil is hot, add the onions and fry for about five minutes until they turn pale caramel. Then add the spice paste and stir for another five minutes until the onions soften.

If the paste starts getting stuck to the bottom of the pan, add a little hot water and scrape it off.

Now add the spice powders, the lamb shanks and the tomatoes, and stir like mad for 10 minutes. Add salt according to taste, submerge in hot water and either leave to cook on a medium flame covered for an hour or pressure cooker for 25 minutes after the first whistle.

In the meantime, coat the sliced potatos with one tablespoon of oil, some salt and bake in the over for about 25 minutes, flipping over mid way. Remove from the oven as soon as they are done, to prevent them from going soggy. You could just use readymade oven chips, but this was so simple and satisfying.

When the lamb is cooked, sprinkle the sugar, the worcestershire sauce and the apricots into the curry. It should be rich and thick, so do add a bit of water if it is too dry.

To serve, spoon a lamb shank onto a plate. Serve some potato chips and brown basmati rice on the side. Then sit back and recover.

She arrived in London last week. Complete with three boxes of kasoori methi, 10 bags of savoury snacks and a lifetime supply of incense.

Despite a grand tour of my favourite Indian shop, she still brings me supplies like the global spice trade is about to implode.

And then I have to make that hateful trip to the Halal butcher. Mother crinkles her little nose and heads to the car, leaving me to haggle and watch Mia Sahib chop up the raan (leg of lamb), pack it, hand it to me, take my money and return the change. All using the same hands!!

The best thing about having her here, of course, is that she insists on cooking my all time favourites. And just her presence is enough to bring back memories of the delightful meals we ate at home in Kolkata.

We made mutton ishtew for dinner together. An everyday staple, this is a sublime goat meat and vegetable stew traditionally made to soothe the stomach on difficult days. We cooked it with Mia Sahib’s lamb and a host of veggies.

Steaming hot Basmati rice – essential. Doting mother who lovingly serves it up – optional extra.

This recipe serves 4:

750 gm diced leg of lamb (bones included)

2 medium onions, chopped roughly

1 tbsp ginger, chopped finely

3 large carrots, peeled and halved

2 small turnips, peeled and halved

1 large beetroot, peeled and quartered

2 black cardamoms

2 bay leaves

2 1″ by 1 cm cinnamon sticks

4 cloves

Half tsp black pepper powder

2 tbsp flour

1 large quartered tomato

1 tbsp butter (optional)

2 tbsp oil

Salt to taste

Heat the oil in a large pot on a high flame. When hot add the whole spices – bay leaves, cardamoms, cinnamon and cloves. Fry these for a couple of seconds.

When they starts sizzling and releasing their glorious aromas into the kitchen, add the onions and the ginger and fry for five minutes until translucent. Add the flour and mix it well into the onions frying until the whole mixture goes brown.

Now add the lamb and the tomato and mix them into the masalas for two minutes. Now, chuck in all the vegetables, cover with hot water and cook covered on a medium flame until the lamb is tender.

This should take about 45 minutes. The vegetables will start melting into the light curry.

When the meat and vegetables are cooked, sprinkle the pepper, stir in the butter and add salt to finish.